Here is some basic El Salto information. El Salto is an amazing area. Many people arrive to El Potrero Chico and wonder where the tufas are. They are up in El Salto. The main crags are the Las Animas, La Boca, and Tecalote Cave.
Las Animas is a gently overhanging crag with lots of tufas and flakes. There are many hard projects on the smoother middle part of the wall.
Tecalote Cave has some classic cave style routes with big tufas and stalactites. It is another 20 minute hike past Las Animas but worth the hike.
La Boca also has some classic routes and is a shorter approach then Las Animas. Also if it is a year when the river is flowing through El Salto La Boca is nice because you don't have to hike through the river. Also a little further up the canyon is Alex Catlin's new area La Sabrosa which has some new classics that rival Las Animas. A topo should be available at Dona Kikas.
While there is no book yet dedicated to El Salto Ulric the biggest recent deveoper of the area has a route list here on his blog:
El Salto Climbing mostly starts in the 5.11 and up range. There are a handful of easier routes. El Salto is not known for it's multi-pitch routes despite the big walls everywhere. I'm sure I am missing some but to my knowledge here are the multi-pitch routes in El Salto:
El Mac's route: 5.13? on the left past the In-Trance wall
Lawton's Route 5.12 down the hill from the Tecalote Cave
Shaman Loco 5.14 project on the big wall past Las Animas called the Shaman wall. It was a combination of Italians finishing the route in 2016 and local climbers who started the line.
Samadhi 5.13- Also on the Shaman Wall FA Jimmy Carse Diegito Robin, FFA Alex Honnald Chris Wiedner
The Boca Line
Tears of Gold 5.13a three pitches There is also a 5.10 pitch to keep it 12b, and a variation pitch at 13a called Gold Connection. Located in La Boca
Corrupcion 5.12a On the first wall on your left as you enter the canyon. Three pitch line with a killer third pitch that goes up a steep juggy arete after a techy traverse.
Las Animas roasting in the afternoon sun
Topo for Corrupcion 12a. It's my website so I can spray my own routes
Topo of La Boca made by Brian Tickle
Where to Stay in El Salto
Camping at Kika's is definitely the best option for camping. There is a covered outdoor kitchen with a fridge and stove. You also you won't burrying gringo treasure every morning six inches deep. It only costs a few pesos per night. If you insist on saving a couple bucks you can camp in the canyon for free. La Boca is pretty nice for camping, the left side is private and the owner has been fencing up the area where people used to camp. Also I have heard of things being stolen inside the canyon which is the case anywhere in Mexico when you leave your stuff sitting out in a public space. Remember you are in a country with a $4.00 a DAY minimum wage.
The town of Cienega de Gonzalez is a summer vacation spot for the people of Monterrey so they can escape the brutal heat Monterrey in the summer. Lucky for you winter is the off season and you can rent a handful of beautiful cabins at a low price.
Kika has two cabins for rent. The upstairs cabin pictured below has: one king bed, two individual beds, a full bed, and a sofa bed.
The downstairs is also available to rent. There are three individual beds and one full bed. Fill out the contact form below if you would like to reserve a cabin ahead of time for your trip.
Directions from Potrero to El Salto
From Potrero head south on 53 towards Monterrey. Continue on this road as it turns into Univerisidad. There will be a metro in the middle of the street.
This road ends in a fork after you pass an HEB. Take a left onto Nogalar Sur. When you reach a stop light on a curve start moving to the right to mergo onto Churubusco.
Churubusco ends at a light of a major instersection continues straight to merge onto Constitucion. Exit Constitucion for Garza Sada.
Stay straight on Garza Sada, it turns into the Carretera Nacional. Stay straight for 28 km. You will turn right after the El Cercado town onto the Laguna Sanchez road with signs for the Cola de Caballo waterfall.
Contunie up the steep curvy road until you drop down into the town of Cienega de Gonzalez. Dona Kikas is on the left after around 2 km.