La Cueva Del Oso
La Cueva del Oso is a new climbing area one hour south of Monterrey. It has great potential to be a very popular new sport climbing crag in Mexico due to the unique long steep routes the climb outside of the cave on tufa and stalgtite features. Outside of the largest cave there are also many tufas on vertical and slightly overhanging walls. The climbing area is not to difficult to reach either. It is only about a one hour drive on good roads from Monterrey. It is about a forty minute hike to the start of the climbing. It is also north facing which makes it perfect climbing conditions for Mexico. There is also a beautiful river to camp next to by the road. All these things combined make the climbing area an amazing experience.
The area is a pretty new climbing area. At the moment there are only seven routes ranging from 5.10- to 5.12c. There are many some routes to come and even a second cave that has not been explored. It is published in the new Mexico Norte Climbing Guide Book. Due to the north facing aspect the rock is pretty dusty. It is a little more remote and adventerous then it's neighbor the Cumbia Cave closer to El Salto.
Don Chalo is super friendly they serve food on most weekends. The place to stock up on Cerveza and cacahuates
To get to La Cueva del Oso from Monterrey head south on Garza Sada. You will pass the town of Santiago where the turn to go up the mountains to El Salto is. You will pass through the small town of Allende. After the you see the turn to go to Montemorelos you stay straight on the main road 85. From that point you go 3.9 miles to a right hand turn where there is a sign for La Boca.
Once you turn onto this road you will drive for about 15 minutes without making a turn. There will be a crazy huge mansion complex with a lookout tower on your right at one point. The road will be next to the river for the last few minutes of the drive. As of right now the road ends at a small store run by Chalo. There is a bridge being repaired.
From here either cross the river in a truck or park your car at Chalo's. About a mile down the river there is another crossing required either on foot or in a truck. The land mark is a huge tree next the river. From here hike along the road for another few minutes. You will walk along some blasted rocks next to the river and then cross the river again.
After you cross the river a third time the turn for the trail is very close. If you are walking it is more of a traverse along the river then a crossing. You are on the left side of the river. Hike a few hundred yards towards a small cliff band on the left. The trail starts just before the small cliff band.
Once on the trail it is pretty easy to follow cairns to the cave. The first part of the trail goes back and forth up a hill. The second part you cross to the left of a dry river bed and hike to the left of the river bed. The third part requires a little bit of scrambling up some large rocks as work your way to the first climbing wall and small cave this area is called El Frente del Norte.
The are currently two routes at this first wall and a third in progress. The route on the right starting on the big stalctites is Karate Kid 5.12-. The route on the left is Osito Cariñosito (Care Bears) 5.11-.
Hiking up the trail more there is lots of potential for more routes currently there is one sector with the following routes from right to left:
Yogi Bear 5.10+
Bubu variation to the left anchor 5.10-
Chamaco pendejo 5.11+
Currently in the large cave there is only one route:
La Gripa 5.11+ to the first anchor. 5.12c to the second anchor.